My Unholy Week

Day 1: Tuesday night, I went to the surf shop in Katipunan to meet Viva and other friends. The shop was closed, perhaps the owner left early for his weekly dose of surf. We waited in Viva's car for Ada and Bjorn "the-ever-drunk-German" (this could be redundant). They arrived late of course, perhaps because of the requisite two bottles of Red Horse before a drive. We saw the other Bjorn at a gasoline station, small world. He will be surfing on the other side of the island. Contrary to our fear that Bjorn will drive us over a cliff, we arrived safely around 4 AM the next day. Buji and his friends weren't so lucky though. Their surf mobile, a cool hula combi, broke down and they got delayed for an hour and a half.

Day 2. Viva was gone when I woke up, as usual she is still the surf-gaga as ever. I surfed the beach break even though it was closed-out. The wipe-outs were scary. Imagine wave after wave dumping like water falls. Would have been better surfing the point, but it was a long paddle out and I am scared of reefs! The first daughter and her boyfriend were in the line-up. It took me an hour to finally get the courage to get a wave because I was afraid of a really bad wipe-out and injuring the president's daughter in the process. When I took off on a wave, I stood up and looked down on this really big drop and got shit scared! It was one of my worst wipe-out. Almost got hit by my board on the head and drunk tons of water. In the afternoon we went shopping for food!



Day 3. Viva woke me up at 7 but I was too lazy to get up. I had a few beers the night before. Finally surfed before noon. The waves were smaller and I scored a few rides! Ada made baked tahong for dinner! I tried skateboarding and fell in love with it! I'm thinking of getting one for myself. If I get homesick in Sweden, the board will cheer me up. Who needs a boyfriend when you have a loyal, hard stick! Check out the bikini top Jam made for Bjorn!

Day 5. It was a really fun day, like how summer surf should be. I scored a plethora of baby waves! I was riding and paddling back for more, just lovely. I will miss this place and the memories. Like that time when it was flat and we watched Lord of the Rings while the local guys were high. They were just laughing at every scene. Or this water pump where we were forced to take a bath that day when there was no electricity and water.